Climbing the Eiger, 2005

We rapped down a low intensity waterfall and got our rope stuck requiring some self-belayed climbing to free it. On our last rap we rapped into a bergscrund (crevasse between rock and glacier) and the claustrophobic refrigerator effect of the ice felt great.

After maneuvering down the Honysch glacier and a toe screaming descent down the approach trail we were back at the Apiglen train station. We were down! Many of the tourist seeing gear-laden half-crazed climbers fired questions at us in a variety of languages. Yes, we were on the Eiger, we answered. Yes, we are nuts.
In retrospect retreat was the only option. We attempted the route at the wrong time of year due to the global warming conditions affecting the Alps. We were aware of the conditions from the London Telegraph article but were hoping that the Northeast Pillar might not be affected. It has to be colder with ice or warmer with dry rock. If we had tried to get through the waterfall or to the upper ice fields the probability of death would have been high. Round One goes to the Eiger.